Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Gathered Ruffle Fabric Skirt with Elastic Waistband

This is our most requested pattern. There are several ways to complete a gathered skirt with elastic waistband. This is the way we do it. We have written very detailed directions but please don't be scared off- it is really quite simple. The fabric really turns this simple design into a fun and flirty skirt.

The first consideration in making the skirt is how you’d like it to fit and where the waistband will be worn. Some like the skirt to sit a little lower towards the hip rather than tight around the waist. In this example we are using two different fabrics for the skirt. The directions for the skirt portion is found in the Color Block Ruffle Fabric Tutorial.

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Ruffle fabric & elastic



FIGURE TWO MEASUREMENTS

Many professionals suggest deducting one-half to one inch from the waist measurement so the elastic fits nice and snug. (This is especially important when using our 3” elastic. We deduct a full inch.) If when the measurement is taken, the tape is pulled snug, no deduction is taken. Because we overlap the ends of the elastic to sew it together, add 3/4" or so.



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Our waist measurement for this skirt was 19.5 inches- we cut the elastic 20.5 inches


The length measurement is taken below the elastic to the desired length. Some prefer above the knee, some below. When using 2” RUFFLES the length needs to be flexible—an inch longer or shorter. Because we cut between the 2” RUFFLE, the length is usually an even number. (When using the 3” elastic, we opt for a shorter length because the skirt slips down slightly, even when the elastic fits snugly.)


We also consider the hip measurement (for adult-sized skirts) to determine if the full width of the ruffle fabric being used will allow the skirt to drape nicely in the back- we would not want the gathered skirt to be tight around the bottom. (This is also a consideration in determining the length of the skirt. Will it be too short in the back after draping over the buttocks?


For infant sizes up to 5-6 toddler sizes, we use approximately 36 inches of the RUFFLE width, leaving 12” or so for another project (embellishments, etc). It is an individual preference how much fullness or how many gathers to put into the skirt. In some instances, with a large adult waist size, we have used a number of inches from an additional width of ruffle fabric, adding to the full width of the fabric.


CUTTING

If uncertain, cut the skirt one extra RUFFLE longer. It can easily be trimmed off at any time during or after the skirt is completed.

Decide which cut end will serve as the top of the skirt. (See note for sewing with Cotton Candy 1” RUFFLES and Candy Cane 1” RUFFLES.) There is no need to hem the bottom of the skirt as it will not fray. But if you desire to serge, it will add a little weight to the bottom of the skirt.


ELASTIC

We like to serge the ends of the elastic and apply a drop of Fray Check to the ends of the threads. Set it aside to dry. (optional step)

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After fray check dries, trim the thread on the elastic.

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Stitch elastic ends together, reinforcing at both edges.

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Stagger the ends to reduce bulk in finished elastic


Turn right side out, then stitch 1/4” from seam (stitching down the seam allowances), then again, 1/4” away from the first seam line.

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First seam on right side of elastic

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Second seam 1/4" away from the first


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Finished elastic, wrong side showing


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Finished elastic, right side showing



SEAMING THE SKIRT

We have found this to be the fastest, easiest way to sew the skirt together. The seam becomes the SIDE rather than the back of the skirt.

Serge off (or baste) the right selvage so that it holds the RUFFLES in place. Then after determining how much of the width to use, serge on the wrong side of the RUFFLES, which holds the RUFFLES in place on the left side.

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Make sure all ruffles are facing down when serging (or basting). This will hold all the ruffles in place for the next steps.


Place right sides together, matching RUFFLES. Using the lines on the wrong side of the fabric, pin the fabric together.

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If the lines match, the RUFFLES on the right side will be perfectly (or nearly) matched. Serge off the previously serged edges of both sides as you seam the skirt together.

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Finished side seam

GATHER THE TOP OF THE SKIRT

There are several ways. If you have a serger and have not yet used your serger to gather your RUFFLE FABRIC, you may want to check with the manufacturer to see if you can increase the tension, lengthen the stitch and change the differential to allow gathering. Another way to gather the top is to sew a long stitch, then pull the top thread to gather the FABRIC. Or zigzag over a heavy thread (dental floss even works!), then secure one end and pull the other to create gathers.

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zigzagging over thick thread (dental floss shown here)


TAILOR TACKS

Divide the elastic into fourths and mark with a single thread. Repeat with the gathered top of the skirt. Match the two seams, then half mark, the fold to find and mark quarters.

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Bring the tacks from the elastic to the corresponding ones on the skirt top.

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Adjust gathers to fit elastic, and pinning with the point up to the top of the elastic. (Take care to prevent the RUFFLES from catching on the pins!) The elastic will line up at the top of the RUFFLE (Note exception for 1” Cascading Brown, Pink and Yellow with White Dots).


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STITCHING ELASTIC TO SKIRT

Professional/industrial Cover Stitch machines deliver a flawless dual seam to join the elastic and skirt together. You can create a similar finished product by using a twin needle.


Using a twin needle, the top of the waistband will have two adjacent rows of stitching. The underside has a zigzag stitch which allows the elastic to stretch without breaking or popping the stitch. Twin needles come in various widths. You will need to explore which widths are compatible for your sewing machine. We use the 4.0 or 6.0 (the 6.0 makes the parallel stitches further apart than the 4.0). When sewing over the seam of the elastic and skirt, it may be necessary to “walk” the machine over the multiple layers by moving the wheel by hand to prevent skipping stitches.

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FEW NOTES:

CANDY CANE AND COTTON CANDY RUFFLE FABRICS – have a definite one way design to allow the RUFFLES to cascade, showing the fine colored edge beautifully. Cut the fabric one RUFFLE longer than the desired length of the skirt, then trim the top RUFFLE, leaving both parts of the fabric between RUFFLES, the opaque strip and the sheer strip. Both parts are needed to allow enough room to gather and attach the elastic.


BROWN, PINK, AND YELLOW POLKA DOT 1” RUFFLE FABRICS – When attaching elastic to skirt, we drop the elastic down slightly (about 1/8”) to cover the portion that is not colored, otherwise there is a white strip between the elastic and the beautifully colored design of the fabric.


11 comments:

  1. I really want to make this skirt. I'm so excited! I just got the fabric and just waiting to get the measurements for my 6 year old grand daughter. I want to make it in a size 7-8. Do you have any suggestions?

    Melda

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  2. When I sew the elastic to the ruffle fabric using my twin needle, my stitches 'hop' around more than I would like. Any ideas about why this is happening?

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  3. Just a suggestion, but putting a picture of the finished skirt on the post might give people an idea of what they will end up with.

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    Replies
    1. GREAT IDEA!!! I would LOVE to know what it looks like BEFORE I decide to try making it. :)

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  4. Can I use a single needle to sew the ruffle skirt to the elastic band, as I do not have a twin needle?

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    Replies
    1. That's what I've been doing. I've been using a zigzag stitch to allow for stretch, and just sewing it on (I also haven't have a serger, so I've just been using a straight stitch for the vertical seams, and that's been working great... and I haven't been bothering to gather the top, either, I just pin at at the midpoints -- going straight to pins, skipping the taylor tacks -- then the midpoints of those sections, so it's then in quarters, then divide each quarter in half again, so it's dividing in 8ths, which I may or may not divide once more, depending on the size of the skirt, and stretch the elastic to the same length as the fabric as a sew, so it lays flat when stretched, which creates a gathered look when I release the tension on the elastic). The only downside I've found to using a single needle is that the zigzag stitch, which is necessary to allow the elastic to stretch, doesn't look quite as professional as the parallel rows of straight stitches that you'd get with a double needle. But part of that is because I'm still a beginner and my seams aren't perfectly straight (plus I've been having trouble with the top of the fabric rolling, at which point it escapes from under my presser foot, and I have to go back and fix it -- and it probably doesn't help that I try to avoid having to do that by just kind of unrolling it as a go, which works well enough if I catch it soon enough, but produces an even less perfect seam -- although that problem might be fixed if I start cutting the top just bellow the ruffle, rather than between the sheer and opaque fabrics, as I had been doing to minimize my fabric waste, although it turns out that a single ruffle can be turned into various cute embellishments or accessories anyway), and also the stitch width lever on my machine is kind of loose, and moves as the machine vibrates... if I'm not careful, my zigzag would quickly turn into a straight stitch, but even if I move it back every few seconds, my stitch width still ends up at least a little uneven.

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  6. Thanks for the part about using twin needles. I've just been using a zigzag stitch, but want the seam to look more professional (particularly if I'm going to use cute elastic, since I'll want it to be visible), and while I'm not quite ready to try a twin needle yet, as I just started using my mom's sewing machine a few days ago, now I know where to go next!

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  7. These are pretty. Love your dressmaking fabric choices. Thanks for the tutorial.

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